There’s a new guy in town for the foodie in all of us, and while at first glance it sounds like it’s mostly for those who love Mexican cuisine, many may find they are just one serving of “Tacos Al Pastor” away from a newfound gotta-have food fix.
For starters, it may be time to re-define a few common assumptions about Mexican fare … it doesn’t have to be spicy … it doesn’t have to be greasy … it is made from fresh ingredients and it’s time to add (lots of) cilantro to the vocabulary list.
It’s all at the only Mexican Taqueria in town—“Paco’s Tacos”—who had their ribbon-cutting ceremony this past Friday. The couple who opened Paco’s are familiar to many. Laura (nee Bullington), who grew up in Roanoke, and Arturo Gomez, along with their two children Alexandra, age nine, and Jakey, six, have worked for many months to open their new restaurant—a longtime dream of Arturo’s. The atmosphere is bright and welcoming; just coming through the door there is a sense that this is not your average Mexican eatery.
Maybe it’s the aroma of slow-roasting pork over onions and pineapple, reminiscent of pulled pork that is so beloved in the south. Maybe it’s those colorful soda bottles with the ornate-looking labels all lined up (Jarritos)—or the smiling servers behind the counter that add a feeling of pleasant curiosity for the first-time visitor, who may want to venture to try a sample of “Horchata,” an authentic Mexican rice-based sweet soda beverage with just a hint of—cinnamon? It’s different, but tasty and refreshing.
Laura Gomez chatted easily with customers and well-wishers while keeping an eye on her young son, who had a nice button-down shirt pressed and ready for the opening event, but in all the excitement forgot to wear it. (Much to mom’s angst!). Arturo kept the line moving, and kept up a friendly banter, as a mostly steady flow of customers stopped in around lunchtime. There were tacos and cake all around to celebrate the new venture, which is billed as a “’taco shop,’ where one can choose from a variety of meats and savor traditional tacos just like those found in Mexico … Some call them ‘Street Tacos.’”
She says many people come in and say, “THIS is what I’ve been waiting for; this is what I grew up with!” upon trying their tacos and tortas, (Mexican subs) which she takes as a high compliment. Laura is careful to reiterate that everything, including the cheese dip, salsas, and taco salad is homemade from scratch with fresh ingredients, and the meats are grilled or boiled, not fried. They season everything authentically, and not all the dishes are spicy.
The business has been a family project from the beginning. Laura says that Arturo “has always wanted to do this, as long as I’ve known him, about 20 years, [so] it’s a real dream come true.” Arturo, who is from Vera Cruz Mexico uses many family recipes from back home; it’s “like walking into Mexico right here,” Laura adds. Dad Jim Bullington, retired from running the landmark Texas Tavern, has been a support, as has her mother Velma, a Pastor who gave the invocation for the ribbon cutting ceremony. Brother Matt Bullington (current owner of the Tavern—a separate business) helped paint the new Paco’s restaurant.
While these two family businesses are very different, the spirit of entrepreneurship is a common trait. The Gomez children have been included every step of the way, and it is an opportunity for them to learn, according to Laura, who says “everything we do is for our kids.” She says they tell the kids over and over what entrepreneurship means: “Believe in yourself; Have a goal; Do not waver; Go for it!”
The long hours and careful planning have paid off as the restaurant seems poised for success in the niche they have chosen. On his way out, friend and business associate Don Darnell smiles as he tells Laura that in addition to the delicious menu, “the charm and charisma that [she] and Arturo have will keep people coming back!”
Paco’s Tacos is located two blocks from Orange Ave., at 1613 Williamson Road. Phone 540.265.0007. Hours are Mon. – Thurs. 11 – 9; Fri. & Sat. 11 – 10; Sunday 11 – 8