The Texas Tavern – self-proclaimed home of “The Millionaires Club” – observes another milestone this weekend, with an 80th anniversary celebration. Now owned by a fourth generation member of the Bullington family – Matt – the Tavern will mark the occasion on Saturday (Feb. 13) at 11 a.m. “Expect a local dignitary or two,” says former operator Jim Bullington, Matt’s father and now a photographic contributor to the Star-Sentinel.
“Open All Nite” as the sign says, the cozy Texas Tavern is famous for its hot dogs, chili, hamburgers and Cheesy Westerns. Jim Bullington helped plan the last 4-5 milestones but left it to his son this time. Congressman Bob Goodlatte and State Senator John Edwards showed up for the 75th anniversary. Roanoke Mayor David Bowers once gave the elder Bullington a key to the city.
The Tavern was established in 1930 by Jim Bullington’s grandfather, Isaac Newton Bullington, who at one time was an advance man for Ringling Brothers Barnum and Bailey Circus. “He had his own private railroad car and traveled all over the United States…a year ahead of the circus,” said Bullington, who was just four when his grandfather died. A chili dish Isaac Bullington once ate in San Antonio helped inspire him to open a restaurant, selling the same recipe.
Opened during the height of the Great Depression, Bullington said “people [had to eat],” and the affordable food served at the Tavern meant that they could still dine out on occasion.” Even today a family with kids can eat there “for the least amount of money and still get a decent meal…for less than twenty bucks. When times get tough like they are now, our business actually picks up. It’s kind of recession proof.”
When his grandfather passed away, his father closed down a second Texas Tavern they had opened in Lynchburg and came back to run the Roanoke eatery at 114 Church Avenue. Jim Bullington’s father, James, ran the tavern from 1940 to 1966, and he took it over after working the night shift.
“I never asked him to work there in high school,” said Bullington of his son Matt, who nevertheless decided he wanted to buy the business after graduating from Roanoke College. Now, “we’ve got the fifth generation in preparation,” says Bullington, referring to Matt’s toddler son Sam.
Jim Bullington once threatened to leave the site on Church Avenue when a bank that owned the land underneath the building refused to negotiate a selling price. He told the bank he was looking to build a new tavern on a family-owned larger plot further up Church Avenue. “The next morning the bank called me,” chuckled Bullington. “[But] I didn’t want to move.” It’s hard to think of the Texas Tavern being anywhere else after 80 years.
By Gene Marrano [email protected]